DISCLOSURES
First of all, let me say right up front that this post (like all my others) is unsponsored and unsolicited. All of the bottles and samples reviewed and photographed by me were purchased at full retail cost. There are no “affiliate links” or ads on my site, and I do not receive any compensation (money or merchandise) for reviews, “clicks,” or sales.
Secondly, I must say that I consider perfumer Neal Peters to be a friend, of sorts. Not a close, in-real-life, comes-to-all-my-dog’s-birthday-parties friend, or anything like that. But, he is a member of a very small, private, online perfume chat that I’ve been a part of for years.
The old lady in me still finds it bizarre and maybe inappropriate to call people who you’ve never met in person “friends.” But also, I feel like it would be a slight and a mischaracterization to call it anything other than friendship. No, he doesn’t know my kids’ names, we wouldn’t recognize each other on the street, and he’s never helped me move my furniture. But he did recommend Encens Mythique d’Orient to me, so he will always have a special place in my heart.
Also, Neal has an impressive career besides being a brilliant niche perfumer. Since his “other job” is in the same industry as my husband’s, when my husband left his entire life behind to move here to be with me, Neal very generously volunteered to look at his resumé and gave him some solid suggestions and job leads. (None of the leads ended up working out, but it was a kind gesture, and a much-needed momentum shift).
So, what does this mean for my reviews of Mirus fragrances?
Well, quite simply, it means that if I did not absolutely love them, and couldn’t recommend them highly, I wouldn’t write about them at all. (That’s pretty much my modus operandi anyway, since I primarily write about scents that I have purchased, and life’s too short to spend it focusing on what you don’t like). I have chosen to write about them because they excite and inspire me.
Neal is a super-humble person and has absolutely no idea that I’m planning to review his fragrances, or that I’m basically a super-fan who has bought five bottles. (If anything, it will probably make him ever-so-slightly uncomfortable.) Besides making intelligent and beautiful perfumes, his superpower is deflecting attention and praise. In fact, I had “known” him for quite a long time before I became aware that he had a perfume line for sale (and even then, it took me quite a while to drag the name out of him).
To be clear, my reviewing of Mirus Fine Fragrance’s scents is certainly not a “personal favor” or even a friendly gesture, and most definitely not a so-called collaboration. Neal is a talented professional perfumer who has been an Arts & Olfaction Awards finalist, and I’m just a crazy perfume lady who likes to write in obscurity. Please don’t hold our casual online acquaintance against him.
MIRUS FINE FRAGRANCE
On to the good stuff — Mirus Fine Fragrance is a true niche fragrance house, based in California. All of the scents are created and handmade in-house by Neal himself, using exceptional ingredients. Some of these ingredients include natural oud, genuine ambergris, and loads of real oakmoss. All of the Mirus scents are presented in extrait concentration.
Neal says this on his brand’s website:
“I make fragrances that smell their best long after you’ve applied them. When you apply a Mirus fragrance, you can be sure that the best part is yet to come.”
I am here to testify that every bit of this is true. Mirus fragrances are all pleasingly complex and have distinct phases. Unlike many scents that will seduce you at the fragrance counter, and then do you wrong 20 minutes later, these are solid and special from beginning to end. Not a single shortcut was taken, no detail was overlooked. So, if you decide to try a fragrance from Mirus, keep in mind that it was intended to be worn on your skin and develop over a period of hours. You will be rewarded with an exceptional sensory experience.
CEREMONY FRAGRANCE REVIEW
Ceremony is a natural oud fragrance released in 2016. Ceremony showcases a stunning Thai oud oil that is rich and complex. This fragrance was a finalist for an Art and Olfaction award in 2017, in the artisan category.
I know it sounds cliché, but Ceremony is a natural oud fragrance that will appeal to a wide audience. It is a Western-style fragrance made with high-quality natural oud. It is deep, rich, and complex, but balanced with lightness and clean elements.
Love oud? This is an amazing use of it. Not a hardcore oud fan? It’s sweet and fresh, composed with incredible deftness and nuance. You may or may not love it, but you’ve probably never smelled anything else like it. If you loathe oud, I can’t say that this will change your mind. This is not just another pretty fragrance with a drop of oud for trendiness’ sake. It is a true oud-centric fragrance, but the oud itself is never overwhelming or “stinky.”
Immediately after spraying, the oud is apparent. It is clean and woody, with a slight apple-tinged fruitiness. As a person who has worn a lot of natural oud fragrances, I always marvel at its effervescence. Instead of being warm and heavy, the oud in Ceremony has a rather “cooling” effect. There is no fecality or smell of decay. Compared to other ouds, it’s not truly medicinal, but it is tiptoeing up to the line. This is framed with just a touch of lemony magnolia, for a uniquely fresh and pleasant experience of natural oud.
After 30 minutes, Ceremony unfolds with aspects of honeyed jasmine around the rich heart of oud. The florals here are restrained whispers that enhance, not compete. They are so seamlessly integrated that they seem like facets of the oud itself, not just adornments or distractions.
At one hour, the oud has become richer and less fizzy. The fragrance smells rounder, like smooth gold tobacco and moist oud chips. This is modern elegance at its finest – tasteful, refined richness. Everything present is intentional and precise, but there is also an ease about it. The oud maintains its clean, woody, natural character. If there is any “animalism,” it’s like smelling Choupette’s fur.
CEREMONY FINAL THOUGHTS
You don’t always need a foghorn of oud, or a melange of woods, rose, and saffron. The relative austerity of Ceremony is its genius. There are those “statement perfumes” that scream “Opulence – you own everything!” (and, you know, thank God for them, because I’m a Diva at heart).
Contrast that with Ceremony, which quietly and confidently oozes luxury and elegance, exactly because it’s more subdued. It’s like the difference between a huge, flashy diamond brooch and your “everyday” strand of Mikimoto pearls or pavé T-bracelet. Because sometimes you’re still rich and stylish, but you aren’t at a Gala or on the red carpet.
Ceremony is truly genderless, seasonless, and can easily go from day to night. It feels special, but not “special occasion.” You can wear it to work or on a grocery run, but you could also wear it with a suit and tie or little black dress.
I purchased Ceremony as a blind-buy, based on its recognition by the Art & Olfaction Awards committee, and my previous experience with Mirus. From the name, “Ceremony,” I had visuals of temples and Mosques, altars, bakhoor, and anointing oils. All of my mental images were dark, heavy, smoky, and even a little somber. I like those things, they definitely have their place in my perfume wardrobe. But, I was very pleasantly surprised to find that this is a chic, uplifting fragrance. It maintains the integrity of the oud and celebrates its natural beauty, but within a modern, Western aesthetic.
Now I think of Ceremony differently. I’m not sure how it got its name, but to me it epitomizes the ceremony and ritual of applying fragrance every day. You don’t have to wait for a special occasion, or a certain season (or a time when you won’t be around other people) to enjoy natural oud. Ceremony could be worn for a special occasion, but it’s also appropriate for everyday wear.
CEREMONY DETAILS
Ceremony’s listed notes are Thai oud, magnolia, jasmine, and white musk. Ceremony is presented as an extrait, and available in 15 mL bottles.
Ceremony has low-to-moderate projection, minimal sillage, and lasts about 6 hours on my skin.
MIRUS STOCKISTS
The Mirus Fine Fragrance line is sold by only two retailers (there are no direct sales). The first is Tigerlily Perfumery, which has one boutique in San Francisco, as well as online sales. The second is Avé Parfum, which is an online-only boutique. Both retailers offer samples. As this is a small brand with small distribution, stock levels vary. Currently the prices for 15 mL bottles range from $65-85, which is an exceptional value for the quality of the product, in my humble opinion.
I love the cool, sometimes icy effect of some ouds like in ex idolo 33. It was a surprise. I always thought ouds were warmibg.