A personal discussion of the ups and downs of perfume collecting, and the lessons leaned after the death of a close friend.
The Beast Mode Diaries (Beast Mode from Chris Rusak Perfume)
I’ve wrestled with writing about Beast Mode for ten months now, and I still haven’t come up with anything that conveys its simple genius, the way it’s both beautiful and serious, austere and profound, how it feels like a safe embrace and a soft armor against the world. Rather than just continue to flounder, and say nothing at all, I’ve decided to take a collection of various thoughts and feelings that I’ve written down during different wearings of Beast Mode, and simply share them. I hope you find them intriguing.
Bittersweet: How loss connected me to the Monell Center’s fight against anosmia
Most people learn of the Monell Center when they (or a loved one) have suffered a sensory loss. The Monell Center, in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, is the world’s only independent, non-profit scientific institute dedicated to interdisciplinary basic research on the senses of taste and smell.
I became personally connected to Monell in quite a different way, through the loss of a friend. This week would have been his birthday, so I am taking time to remember him in a number of ways, and this is one. Here is a little part of our story.
JURASSIC FLOWER by Carlos Benaïm for Frédéric Malle
“Think of it as Glade air freshener for billionaires.” (Ralph Gardner Jr. – The Wall Street Journal). After writing a review for the new release from Fūm Fragrances titled “Jurassic Flower,” it was brought to my attention that Frédéric Malle has had a scent for many years called Jurassic Flower, and it’s based on a very similar concept — the ancient magnolia tree.
Book of Shadows from Alkemia Perfumes – Fragrance Review
Book of Shadows is a very inky scent, but it doesn’t smell like your typical “ink” perfume. It’s not the sludgy, sooty scent of India ink, and it’s not just some murky, mothbally cypriol to suggest inkiness. It’s the crisp, flowy, and purple-black scent of iron gall ink. Bitter and fruity-nutty like gum arabic, with a metallic sheen (that just flirts with being reminiscent of heme), I can imagine thick, dense downstrokes, hairlike upstrokes, and dainty flourishes. The “throw,” when I get a random sniff from arm’s length, sometimes reminds me of the sweet, rubbery-tinged smell of a good print shop ink
Jurassic Flower from Fūm Fragrances – Fragrance Review
It’s been a while since I was moved by a fragrance description. But when I saw the photos on Instagram of magnolia flowers with their waxy leaves and curly carpels and a caption that promised “a unique twist on magnolia,” it grabbed me by the heartstrings and I pretty much had to try Jurassic Flower by Fūm Fragrances. Maybe it’s the inability to travel right now, or even be outside really, that filled me with a longing for this magnolia from the sea.
HÄXAN from PARFUM PRISSANA
Häxan is a fascinating fragrance from Parfum Prissana, which was launched in 2018 as a limited-edition release. The perfumer was Prin Lomros.
L’Air des Alpes Suisses – Tauer Perfumes – Fragrance Quick Sniff
I don’t enjoy writing negative reviews, and I don’t usually do it. But Tauer Perfumes is going to continue to be wildly successful, and Andy Tauer says he hates bloggers, so he’s probably not going to pay any attention to whatever I say, as he shouldn’t. So… I might as well just put this out there and then let it go.