Tempo and Fleur de Peau are the two new releases from Diptyque. Both fragrances were created by Olivier Pescheux and released in 2018. Tempo is a woody unisex fragrance, and Fleur de Peau is a floral unisex fragrance. I wore each of them for two days, and will review them here.

DIPTYQUE HIST-“O”-RY

Diptyque was founded in Paris in 1961 as a fabric and objects d’art boutique, but by 1963 they had shifted their focus to scented candles. In 1968, Diptyque released their first personal fragrance, L’Eau.

The scent of L’Eau was based on a medieval pomander. Pomanders were perforated balls or charms that were stuffed with fragrant items and worn around the neck or the waist. They were popular in the late Middle Ages and the Renaissance, as both a stylish accessory and for medicinal reasons. At the time, people thought that disease was caused by “miasma,” which is unpleasant smells or vapors. So, pomanders were thought to provide protection against disease. Many Renaissance portraits depict people wearing or holding pomanders.

Pomanders were stuffed with fragrant and aromatic substances like spices, flowers, roots, woods, and fragrant oils. The more pungent and potent, the better to ward off disease. The end result would have been something like modern potpourri.

The main notes of L’Eau are cinnamon, clove, and geranium. L’Eau has been called “the original Spicebomb.” Diptyque L’Eau was a groundbreaking fragrance, for several reasons.

L’Eau was marketed as being neither feminine nor masculine, but capturing both at the same time. Even during the 1960’s, when styles were eclectic and unbridled, perfumes were marketed for men, or for women. Diptyque says that L’Eau is the first “genderless” (unisex) fragrance.

Diptyque claims that L’Eau was the first auteur perfume. An “auteur” fragrance is a fragrance that is created with a distinctive artistic style. Diptyque also claims that L’Eau was the first niche fragrance. Now, feedback and comments are always welcome, but I would like to point out that these statements are Diptyque’s, and not mine. (I have no desire to argue with anyone who chooses to repeat the Creed origin story…) While I can’t endorse these statements with all certainty, I will say that L’Eau from Diptyque certainly meets most people’s definition of a niche fragrance, and it was an early one.

For the 50th anniversary of perfumery at Diptyque, and they have released Tempo and Fleur de Peau to celebrate. These two fragrances are inspired by spirit and scents of the 1960’s, and by Diptyque L’Eau.

A fun fact — all Diptyque perfumes have names that contain either the word “eau” or the sound “o”, as a little tribute to L’Eau, the O.G. Diptyque perfume.

TEMPO FRAGRANCE REVIEW

Tempo is a patchouli fragrance, described as “a tribute to this olfactory icon.” It is composed using three different types of patchouli extracts from Sulawesi, two essential oils and one absolute.

Tempo opens up deeply green. The patchouli is exquisitely complex and refined. It smells rich and earthy, but has an airiness that makes it smell modern and sophisticated.

At first it smells damp, almost mossy. The patchouli is slightly medicinal, joined by elements of clean soil and grassiness from Yerba maté. I can’t stop sniffing it. Yes, it is patchouli, but it’s such a unique and interesting presentation of it.

After about 30 minutes, the buzzy greenness and slight florality of violet leaf sneaks in. The patchouli has become drier, almost nutty. As time goes on, the patchouli becomes slightly sweeter, with more balsam and cocoa nuances.

I am quite impressed with how this fragrance manages to make patchouli feel modern and elegant. No attempts are made to hide the patchouli, in fact it’s very intense. And yet, I could see people who “don’t like patchouli” really falling for this one, because it is so unique and unlike the stereotypical “hippie” patchouli OR the common, loud fruitcholi. If you enjoy patchouli, this fragrance is a must-try. If you don’t enjoy patchouli, it’s worth a sniff — this could be the one that changes your mind.

As a patchouli fragrance, Tempo is definitely a nod to the 1960’s. But it’s not a throwback to unwashed hippies living in a van. Please remember that some of the most fashionable, elegant people in all of history lived during that time. John F. Kennedy and Jacqueline Kennedy, Edie Sedgwick and Andy Warhol, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, I can imagine any and all of them in this sophisticated scent.

TEMPO DETAILS

Tempo has low sillage but forms a pretty fragrant cloud that hangs near my skin. Longevity was about 12 hours.

Tempo is perfectly unisex, maybe leaning masculine due to its woodiness. Listed notes are patchouli, maté, clary sage, and violet.

Tempo is presented as an EdP, at a price of $165 for 75mL at diptyqueparis.com.

FLEUR DE PEAU FRAGRANCE REVIEW

Fleur de Peau is said to be inspired by the great love story of Psyche and Eros, their longing and eventual union, which produced their daughter Hedone. Hedone was the goddess of sensual pleasure, and the perfumer says that the use of musks in this fragrance is a tribute to her legend.

Fleur de Peau’s initial smell is clean aldehydes and waxy iris. For about 10 minutes, it has a delightful smell that reminds me exactly of the Bonne Bell Dr. Pepper Lipsmacker.

After that, it turns into a soapy musk. The ambrette gives it ever-so-slightly a dirty wink, but mostly you smell the fruity aspects of it. The pink peppercorn enhances the fruity sweetness from the ambrette, and adds a floral element. I don’t get any “true” florals from it, just the rooty parts of an iris and the florality of pink pepper. The musk itself is clean, and the overall effect is of floral soap bubbles.

There are moments when Fleur de Peau smells a little bit sweaty, but mostly it’s a very linear scent. Not quite fruity, and not quite floral, but with aspects of each. There is plenty of clean, white musk, and the longevity is decent.

Fleur de Peau is a modern, minimalist scent. It doesn’t make me think of hedonism, and I would call it more of a baie rose fragrance than a musk. Where Tempo inspired adjectives like “elegant” and “sophisticated,” Fleur de Peau makes me think of words like “nice” and “inoffensive.” I loved the first few minutes, but after that it’s just a clean, safe scent that smells like so many other pink pepper fragrances I’ve smelled before. I don’t mind wearing it, but I can’t picture myself actively choosing it.

FLEUR DE PEAU DETAILS

Fleur de Peau is a skin scent with low projection but is very detectable near the skin. Longevity was about 10 hours. Fleur de Peau could easily be worn by men, but has more a feminine vibe. If you like pink pepper fragrances, you can wear this one.

I don’t understand the connection between L’Eau or the 1960s and this fragrance at all. Nor do I understand the mythologic references to Psyche and Eros. Fleur de Peau is a very nice fragrance on its own, maybe a little bit boring for those with more adventurous tastes. I’m just not sure how it fits with any of the others.

Listed notes are musk, iris, ambrettolide, and pink peppercorns.

Fleur de Peau is also sold as an EdP for $165 per 75mL bottle at diptyqueparis.com.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Tempo is a nod to the 1960s, patchouli but better. Fleur de Peau is a modern-minimalist skin scent that will appeal to today’s “you but better” crowd. Although Diptyque has said that these are a salute to their original fragrance, L’Eau, I don’t see any connection between either of these fragrances and the scent of the original L’Eau. Both of these fragrances do fit very well into the Diptyque line and aesthetic, and I expect that they will be very well-received. If you’re on the fence about patchouli, Tempo could be the fragrance that turns you pro-patch.